Dali · Yunnan · Place

Xizhou Ancient Town

A thousand-year-old Bai ethnic town with ornate courtyards, iconic corner tower, and breathtaking seasonal wheat fields near Erhai Lake.

Written and signed by Ivy Chen

4.8/5RatingOpen 24 hoursOpening hours

What it actually is

Xizhou Ancient Town is a thousand-year-old Bai ethnic settlement 18 km north of Dali Ancient Town, east of Erhai Lake and west of Cangshan Mountains. It preserves the finest Bai traditional residences in Yunnan featuring classic courtyard layouts, and was the first capital of Nanzhao Kingdom in the Tang Dynasty.

Editor's take

Ivy ChenWritten and signed by

The verdict

Worth it only if you catch the fields in season (roughly spring wheat, before the early-summer harvest) and you like slow, lived-in old-town wandering with cheap street food — go early to beat crowds and check the rain forecast first. If you're coming in summer expecting green fields, or you want actual attractions and things for kids to do, skip it; the wheat's cut and you'll wonder what the fuss was.

What's great

The Bai architecture here is the real draw — centuries-old courtyard homes and the corner watchtower, and unlike the polished tourist old towns near Dali, people actually still live and work here.

Time it for the wheat fields and you get that open golden-then-green farmland to walk and shoot in — but this is seasonal, so the whole visit hinges on when you come.

It's open 24 hours with no ticket gate, so get there early: you beat both the crowds and the tour groups, and the light on the fields is better.

Cheap street food is everywhere — skewers run about 10 yuan for 8 — so it's an easy, low-cost half-day rather than a big planned outing.

Worth knowing

The wheat fields are the whole point for most people and they're gone outside a narrow window — by June the harvest is done and several visitors showed up to bare, cut fields and left disappointed. If you're coming in summer for the green fields, you'll likely see nothing.

It rains a lot here, and repeat visitors kept flagging washed-out days. A wet day kills the field photos and the walking, so check the forecast before committing.

It's genuinely small and low-key — more than one person said there's 'not much to do.' If you want attractions or activities, kids included, this isn't it; it's a slow wander and some food.

The Dali area is packed with old towns and this one isn't dramatically different from the rest — the food can be hit or miss (the fried shrimp got called dry), so don't go out of your way if you've already seen a couple.

Grounded in 40+ traveller reviews. Distilled by our editors from traveller reviews on Xiaohongshu and Douyin.

Essentials

Opening hoursOpen 24 hours

Rating4.8/5

Good to know

Respect Local CustomsPlease respect Bai ethnic culture and private residences. Do not enter private courtyards without invitation. Smoking is not allowed inside historic buildings.

Xizhou Ancient Town has a mild climate with sunny days and cool mornings and evenings.

Wear light layers and bring a jacket for cooler temperatures at night.

Walk or cycle around the town to enjoy its historic charm and local culture.

Try Xizhou Baba, local dairy products, and authentic Yunnan rice noodles.

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Thousand-Year-Old Bai Architecture

Xizhou preserves the finest Bai traditional residences in Yunnan. The classic 'Three Houses with a Screen Wall' and 'Four Houses with Five Courtyards' layouts feature elaborately carved beams and ornate flying eaves that showcase exceptional Bai architectural artistry.

Corner Tower

The most iconic structure in Xizhou, the Corner Tower stands at the heart of Sifang Square with its distinctive design and 'Xizhou' inscription, featured in the TV drama 'Where the Wind Dwells.'

Seasonal Wheat Fields

Vast wheat fields surrounding Xizhou transform with the seasons—green in spring, golden in late spring and autumn. Small trains chug through the fields, and cafes offer window views of this pastoral scenery.

Getting there

busDirect buses from Dali Ancient Town, about 40 min, approximately 10 CNY per person

didiTaxi from Dali Ancient Town to Zhengyi Gate, approximately 30 CNY

carSelf-drive via Dali-Baoshan Highway, navigate to Xizhou Ancient Town Parking

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